Portable Power Station Runtime Planning for Outages (Priority Loads + Tables)
ZacharyWilliam
Power Outage Prep· Runtime planning worksheet + printable tables
The goal isn’t to “power the whole house.” It’s to keep the right things running as long as possible. This guide helps you build a simple priority list, estimate real watts, and calculate runtime with tables you can print.
The runtime mindset (what actually drains your battery)
In outages, batteries usually get wasted in two ways: big heating loads (space heaters, kettles, hair dryers) and silent “extras” (TVs, game consoles, multiple chargers plugged in all day).
The best strategy is boring (and it works)
Pick a short list of must-run essentials.
Measure or confirm watts (don’t guess).
Run high-draw appliances in short, planned windows when needed (not continuously).
This structure keeps your decision-making simple when you’re tired and the house is dark. Put your own devices into the tiers, then plan runtime around Tier 1 first.
Tier
What belongs here
Examples
Why it’s prioritized
Tier 1 Survive + communicate
Health needs, light, phone charging, basic communications
CPAP/medical device, phone(s), LED lanterns, modem/ONT + router
Safety + staying reachable
Tier 2 Protect food + comfort
Food preservation and small comfort items
Refrigerator “burst cooling,” fan, small blanket warmer (low draw), laptop for work
Reality check: If your plan requires running a space heater, kettle, or microwave for long stretches, you’re not planning “runtime” anymore—you’re planning “fuel.” That’s when generator vs battery tradeoffs matter more. See: Portable power station vs generator vs UPS.
Planning tables: common outage loads (use as a starting point)
These are planning ranges to help you build a first-pass runtime plan. Your exact devices may differ—use label or watt meter data when you can.
Load (typical)
Planning watts (range)
Tier
Notes for better runtime
Modem/ONT + Wi-Fi router
15–35W
Tier 1
Keep it dedicated; don’t plug a bunch of chargers into the same “network” setup.
Phone charging (1–2 phones)
10–30W
Tier 1
Charge in short bursts; avoid leaving everything plugged in all day.
LED lantern / small lights
5–20W
Tier 1
Prefer LED; one bright room beats many dim rooms.
CPAP (no heated humidifier)
20–60W
Tier 1
Heated humidifiers can raise draw a lot—check your settings and adapter label.
Fan (box or pedestal)
25–75W
Tier 2
Use the lowest comfortable setting; aim airflow where people are.
Refrigerator (average)
60–150W (average)
Tier 2
Plan burst cooling and keep doors closed. Use the food safety guide.
Laptop + hotspot work session
40–120W
Tier 2
Lower brightness and close heavy apps; use Wi-Fi when ISP is up.
TV / streaming
60–200W
Tier 3
Often not worth the runtime tradeoff during long outages.
Heating appliances (kettle/heater)
800–1500W+
Tier 3
Huge drain. If heating is a must, plan a different solution.
Use short fridge “burst cooling” windows if needed.
48–72 hours
Assume you’ll need a recharge plan (solar or scheduled charging).
Reduce Tier 2 to only what changes outcomes (food safety, heat risk, medical).
Where UDPOWER fits (light, practical)
Most outage plans fall into two buckets: small essentials (communications + lights) and bigger essentials (longer runtime + more headroom). Here are two simple starting points—then refine with your own watt numbers.
If you plan to extend outages with solar, keep your inputs within your model’s solar limits and use a realistic “daylight” plan. Companion guide: Solar charging during an outage.
Keep recommendations honest: Your best “model size” comes from your Tier 1 watts and how many hours you want—then you add margin. That’s it. Use the worksheet above to avoid buying capacity you don’t actually need.
FAQ
Why does my runtime look shorter than the battery’s Wh rating?
The Wh rating is stored energy. Real-world runtime can be reduced by conversion losses, inverter overhead, high peaks, and heat. Planning with an efficiency factor keeps your estimate realistic.
Should I run everything on AC outlets?
AC is the universal approach and easiest to keep safe (use original adapters). DC can be efficient, but only when voltage/polarity match correctly. When unsure, stick with AC.
How do I plan for a refrigerator without draining the battery?
Use a “burst cooling” strategy and keep doors closed. Pair that plan with food safety decisions so you’re not powering a fridge just to store food you should toss. See: food safety guide.
What if I need multi-day coverage?
You either reduce load dramatically or add a recharge plan. Solar can extend runtime if your system stays within input limits and you plan around actual daylight. Start here: solar charging during an outage.
What’s the single biggest mistake in runtime planning?
Treating “nice-to-have” as “must-have.” A TV or high-draw appliance can erase a careful plan fast. Lock in Tier 1 first, then add only what changes outcomes.
Sources & further reading
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