Electric Stove Energy Usage: Watts and Amps Explained
ZacharyWilliamElectric stoves confuse people for a simple reason: the numbers you see (amps, volts, kilowatts) are all talking about the same thing from different angles. If you’re trying to figure out whether your circuit is “enough,” what it costs to cook dinner, or whether a backup battery can run a burner during an outage, you mainly need two skills: read the rating plate, then translate watts ↔ amps.
Quick answers (the stuff most people actually need)
1) Most “real” stoves are 240V and high-power
Built-in ranges and cooktops are usually on a 240V circuit and can be several thousand watts. For example, one LG radiant cooktop installation guide notes a 30-inch unit can consume up to 7,700W at 240V and a 36-inch unit up to 9,200W at 240V (those numbers are for the cooktop as a whole, not one burner). Source (LG installation PDF)
2) Watts to amps is a one-line conversion
Use Amps = Watts ÷ Volts. A 2,400W burner at 240V is about 10A. The same 2,400W at 120V would be 20A (which is why many countertop burners cap out around 1,800W).
3) Your breaker size doesn’t mean your stove always pulls that many amps
A 40A or 50A circuit is common for ranges in manufacturer install instructions. But cooking is thermostatic: elements cycle on and off, and the “nameplate” number is the maximum possible draw, not the typical average. Example range cord guidance (Whirlpool PDF)
4) Full-size 240V ranges are usually NOT a portable-battery job
If your cooking plan is “run a whole electric range during an outage,” you’re generally in generator / whole-home battery territory. If your plan is “cook safely with one burner,” a single 120V induction burner or hot plate is the realistic target.
Watts vs. amps vs. volts (plain-English definitions)
Think of your stove like a highway system:
- Volts (V) = the “pressure” pushing electricity (most US outlets are 120V; most stoves are 240V).
- Amps (A) = the flow rate (how much current is moving).
- Watts (W) = the actual power being used right now.
The relationship is:
Watts = Volts × Amps
Amps = Watts ÷ Volts
Fast “watts to amps” cheat sheet
| Power (W) | Amps @ 120V | Amps @ 240V | Where you’ll see it |
|---|---|---|---|
| 500 | 4.17A | 2.08A | Low heat / warming / small appliances |
| 1,000 | 8.33A | 4.17A | Small countertop cookers, simmer ranges |
| 1,200 | 10.00A | 5.00A | Many “medium” countertop devices |
| 1,500 | 12.50A | 6.25A | Common 120V hot plate setting |
| 1,800 | 15.00A | 7.50A | Max-ish for many 120V induction burners |
| 2,400 | 20.00A | 10.00A | Large 240V element range |
| 3,000 | 25.00A | 12.50A | Oven bake element range |
| 7,700 | 64.17A | 32.08A | Example total cooktop rating (30" radiant cooktop) |
| 9,200 | 76.67A | 38.33A | Example total cooktop rating (36" radiant cooktop) |
| 12,000 | 100.00A | 50.00A | Example “big range” nameplate class |
Power vs. energy (W/kW vs. Wh/kWh)
This is where most “how long can I run it?” questions go sideways:
- Watts (W) / kilowatts (kW) tell you how fast you’re using power right now.
- Watt-hours (Wh) / kilowatt-hours (kWh) tell you how much energy you used over time.
A simple way to remember it: Energy (kWh) = Power (kW) × Time (hours)
If you want an official reference for what kWh means in the real world, the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA) uses kWh as the standard unit for electricity data and reporting. EIA electricity data & unit context
Typical electric stove wattage & amps (cooktop + oven)
Your exact numbers depend on brand and model, but these ranges are useful for planning and quick sanity checks. When in doubt, trust the rating plate on your specific unit.
Cooktop + oven components (240V systems)
| Component | Typical wattage (W) | Approx. amps @ 240V | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small cooktop element | 1,200–1,500 | 5.0–6.25A | Common simmer / smaller burner range |
| Large cooktop element | 1,800–2,500 | 7.5–10.4A | High heat / larger burner range |
| Dual / bridge element | 2,800–3,600 | 11.7–15.0A | Often used for griddles or oversized pans |
| Oven bake element | 2,000–3,000 | 8.3–12.5A | Cycles on/off after preheat |
| Oven broil element | 3,000–4,000 | 12.5–16.7A | Often higher draw, usually shorter runtime |
| Whole cooktop (example, 30" radiant) | Up to 7,700 | ~32.1A | Example figure from LG cooktop installation guidance. Source (LG PDF) |
| Whole cooktop (example, 36" radiant) | Up to 9,200 | ~38.3A | Example figure from LG cooktop installation guidance. Source (LG PDF) |
Plug-in countertop options (120V systems)
| Device type | Typical wattage (W) | Approx. amps @ 120V | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single induction burner | 1,300–1,800 | 10.8–15.0A | Often the most realistic “one-burner backup cooking” solution |
| Hot plate (coil / ceramic) | 1,000–1,500 | 8.3–12.5A | Usually easier on power budgets than a full-size stove |
| Rice cooker | 300–1,000 | 2.5–8.3A | Low draw, long runtime — great for backup power |
| Microwave (countertop) | 900–1,500 (input varies) | 7.5–12.5A | Check the label: “cooking watts” and “input watts” are different |
How to find your stove’s real numbers
- Find the rating plate / label. It’s often on the oven door frame, inside the drawer, under the cooktop lip, or behind a panel. Look for a value in kW or W, and sometimes a current value in A.
- Confirm the voltage. Most ranges/cooktops are 240V (sometimes listed as 120/240V or 120/208V in apartments/condos).
-
Translate to amps. If your label says
9.2 kWat240V, that’s9200W ÷ 240V ≈ 38.3A. - Check the installation guide for circuit expectations. Many manufacturer install instructions reference 40A or 50A range cords / supplies. Examples: LG range install PDF, Whirlpool range install PDF, GE install PDF
Why your stove rarely draws “max power” for long
Even if your stove is rated for a high maximum, most cooking isn’t “everything on full blast, nonstop.” Here’s what usually lowers the average:
- Thermostat cycling: elements pulse to maintain temperature after preheat.
- Power levels aren’t linear: “5 out of 10” is often timed cycling, not half-wattage.
- Different elements take turns: ovens may alternate bake/broil/convection components.
- Pans matter: induction in particular responds to pan size and coupling.
Cost to run an electric stove (with realistic examples)
The math is simple: kWh = (Watts ÷ 1000) × hours, then multiply by your utility rate.
For a reference point, the EIA shows the U.S. average residential electricity price and state prices (for example, California is typically higher than the national average). EIA State Energy Profile (CA + U.S. average)
| Cooking scenario (example) | Assumed average power | Time | Energy (kWh) | Cost at 18.07¢/kWh (U.S. avg example) | Cost at 32.04¢/kWh (CA example) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single 1800W countertop burner, 10 minutes at full power | 1,800W | 0.17 hr | 0.30 | $0.05 | $0.10 |
| Single 1800W burner, 30 minutes at ~60% (average 1080W) | 1,080W | 0.50 hr | 0.54 | $0.10 | $0.17 |
| Oven bake element (3000W) cycling ~40% over 1 hour (avg 1200W) | 1,200W | 1.00 hr | 1.20 | $0.22 | $0.38 |
| Oven broil (3500W) for 8 minutes | 3,500W | 0.13 hr | 0.47 | $0.08 | $0.15 |
| Two large elements, 20 minutes at ~50% total (avg 2400W combined) | 2,400W | 0.33 hr | 0.80 | $0.14 | $0.26 |
Can a portable power station run an electric stove?
It depends on what you mean by “electric stove.”
- Full-size 240V range / built-in cooktop: usually too much continuous power for typical portable power stations (and the voltage/output type often won’t match).
- Single 120V induction burner or hot plate: often workable, as long as your backup power can handle the continuous watts.
A practical “backup cooking” approach
If cooking during an outage is the goal, many households keep a single 120V induction burner or hot plate. It won’t replace a full kitchen range, but it’s a realistic load for portable power.
| What you’re trying to run | Typical electrical reality | What to look for in backup power | UDPOWER example (optional) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full-size 240V range (multiple burners + oven) | Often many thousands of watts; requires 240V supply and high-current wiring | Usually a generator / whole-home battery + 240V inverter setup (and proper transfer equipment) | Not a typical portable power-station use case |
| Built-in cooktop (example totals 7,700W–9,200W) | High draw at 240V; manufacturer guidance often pairs with 40A–50A circuits (LG example) | Same as above: not a casual plug-in situation | Not recommended for typical portable stations |
| Single 120V induction burner (up to ~1,800W) | Often near 15A at 120V at max setting | A station with enough continuous AC output to cover the burner + headroom | UDPOWER S2400 has 2,400W continuous AC output and 2,083Wh capacity: S2400 details |
| Lower-power hot plate / rice cooker | Often 300W–1,500W depending on device | Match continuous watts; then size capacity (Wh) for runtime | UDPOWER S1200 is rated 1,200W (pure sine wave), 1,191Wh capacity: S1200 details |
Compatibility checklist (before you plug anything in)
- Confirm voltage: is the device 120V plug-in, or a 240V range/cooktop?
- Find the input watts: look for W, or calculate from A × V.
- Compare to continuous AC output: keep the device under the station’s rated (continuous) AC watts.
-
Plan for runtime: estimate
Runtime (hours) ≈ Battery Wh ÷ Load W(then subtract some for inverter losses). - Use the right tools: if you need conversions or quick math: unit conversion tools and runtime calculator.
FAQ
Why does my stove say “9.6 kW” instead of watts or amps?
kW is just thousands of watts. 9.6 kW = 9,600W. To estimate amps, divide by your voltage: 9,600W ÷ 240V ≈ 40A.
Is induction cheaper to run than a coil burner?
Induction often heats the pan more directly (less heat wasted into the air), so you can get the same cooking done using less total energy. The utility cost still comes down to kWh used: shorter cook time usually saves more than tiny differences in wattage.
Why doesn’t my breaker trip if the stove “could” draw 40–50 amps?
Because “could” and “does” are different. Elements cycle, ovens stabilize, and you’re rarely running every component at full power continuously. The circuit is sized for worst-case conditions, not typical daily cooking.
What about 208V apartments?
Some multi-family buildings supply 208V to ranges. For the same wattage, amps go up slightly because voltage is lower. Use the same formula: Amps = Watts ÷ Volts.
Can I run my built-in 240V range from a portable power station?
In most cases, no — not safely or practically. Voltage, wiring, transfer equipment, and continuous power requirements are the big blockers. If your goal is emergency cooking, plan around a 120V single burner device instead.
What’s the fastest way to estimate how long a battery will run my burner?
Use Runtime ≈ Battery Wh ÷ Load W, then reduce the result a bit for real-world inverter losses. If you want a quick calculator: Portable Power Station Runtime Calculator.
