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How Many Watts Does an RV AC Use?

ZacharyWilliam

RV Power & Cooling • Practical electrical sizing for real-world camping

Most rooftop RV air conditioners run around 1,200–2,000 watts while actively cooling, but they can demand a much higher startup surge (often several thousand watts) for a very short moment when the compressor kicks on.

Running: commonly 1.2–2.0 kW Startup: can feel like 6–9 kW+ momentarily Best method: read the data plate (amps)

The fastest way to get the right number for your rig is to check your AC’s label (or manual) for amps, then convert amps to watts (examples below).

Rooftop RV air conditioner on a travel trailer with a simple overlay showing typical running watts and startup surge

Quick Answer (Typical Watt Ranges)

In most U.S. RVs, a rooftop AC runs on 120V AC. When it’s cooling (compressor running), you’ll often see something like 10–16 amps, which converts to roughly 1,200–2,000 watts.

Infographic showing typical RV AC running watts range and why startup surge matters
RV AC Type / Size Typical Running Power Startup Surge (Momentary) What to Know
11,000–13,500 BTU rooftop (non-inverter) ~1,300–1,900 W Often “feels like” 6,000–9,000 W+ equivalent High startup is the main reason small inverters/power stations struggle.
15,000 BTU rooftop (non-inverter) ~1,500–2,000 W Similar surge issue; sometimes higher due to compressor LRA Hotter weather = longer compressor run time and higher average draw.
Variable-speed / “inverter” rooftop AC Varies widely; can be much lower at partial load Often reduced vs traditional units Check the nameplate and test with a meter—marketing varies by model.
Important: “BTU” is the cooling output, not the electrical input. Two 13,500 BTU units can draw very different watts depending on efficiency and design.

Real-World Examples From Rooftop AC Specs

Below are example electrical ratings (compressor + fan) pulled from a rooftop RV AC installation manual table. These are great for building a realistic expectation before you size shore power, a generator, or a battery system.

Close-up of an RV AC specification label highlighting RLA and LRA values
Example Model Class Cooling (BTU/hr) Compressor RLA (A) Fan RLA (A) Estimated Running Watts @120V Compressor LRA (A) Estimated Startup “Equivalent Watts” @120V Manual’s Min Generator Guidance
Rooftop AC example 11,000 11.5 2.6 ~1,692 W ( (11.5+2.6)×120 ) 55.0 ~6,600 W (55×120), plus fan inrush 3.5 kW (1 unit) / 5.0 kW (2 units)
Rooftop AC example 13,500 12.4 2.5 ~1,788 W ( (12.4+2.5)×120 ) 63.0–68.0 ~7,560–8,160 W (LRA×120), plus fan inrush 3.5 kW (1 unit) / 5.0 kW (2 units)
Rooftop AC example 15,000 13.3 2.0 ~1,836 W ( (13.3+2.0)×120 ) 66.0–70.0 ~7,920–8,400 W (LRA×120), plus fan inrush 3.5 kW (1 unit) / 5.0 kW (2 units)

“RLA” = Rated Load Amps (typical running current). “LRA” = Locked Rotor Amps (startup/inrush reference point). Startup demand is brief, but it’s the sizing bottleneck for many portable power solutions.

How to Calculate RV AC Watts From Amps

If your RV AC label lists amps, you can estimate watts with: Watts ≈ Volts × Amps (for most RV rooftop units, volts are typically ~120V).

Simple diagram showing watts equals volts times amps with RV AC examples
If Your AC Draws… At ~120V, That’s About… What That Means
10A while cooling ~1,200W Often a smaller unit, partial load, or a high-efficiency design.
13A while cooling ~1,560W A common real-world number for many rooftop units.
16A while cooling ~1,920W Heavier load conditions (heat, low voltage, dirty coils/filters).
Tip: If your label lists both compressor amps and fan amps, add them for a practical estimate. If it lists LRA, treat that as the startup challenge, not the steady running draw.

Why Your RV AC Wattage Changes

Even with the same AC model, the watts you see can swing a lot. Common reasons:

  • Outdoor temperature & sun exposure: hotter roof + direct sun = longer compressor runtime.
  • Voltage drop at the pedestal: lower voltage often increases current draw for the same work.
  • Altitude and airflow: restricted airflow (dirty filter/coils) makes the system work harder.
  • Other RV loads: battery charger/converter, microwave, water heater, and fridge can overlap with AC draw.
  • Compressor cycling: average watts over an hour can be far less than “compressor on” watts.

30A vs 50A Shore Power: What It Means for AC

Your shore power service limits how many high-draw loads you can stack with the AC. Here’s the simplest way to think about it.

Side-by-side view of 30-amp and 50-amp RV shore power plugs near a campground pedestal
Service Common RV Interpretation Approx Max Power Real-World AC Implication
30A Single 120V leg ~3,600W (30A×120V) One AC is usually fine, but avoid stacking microwave + electric water heater + AC.
50A Two 120V legs (split service) Up to ~12,000W total available More headroom for two ACs and other loads (still depends on your RV’s distribution panel).

Can a Battery/Power Station Run an RV AC?

Reality check: Running an RV AC from a portable battery is usually limited by startup surge and runtime. Many traditional rooftop units have high inrush current when the compressor starts.
Portable power station connected to an RV exterior outlet during camping for powering essentials

Step 1: Compare Your AC to the Power Source

What to Check Rule of Thumb Why It Matters
Running watts Power source continuous rating should exceed running watts with headroom Prevents overload shutdown during sustained cooling.
Startup surge / inrush Power source must handle compressor start (or you need a soft-starter) This is the #1 reason AC won’t start on small inverters.
Energy capacity (Wh) Higher Wh = longer runtime; AC is one of the fastest ways to drain a battery Even if it starts, it may only run for a short window.

Step 2: Understand the “Hours of Runtime” Math

A simple estimate: Runtime (hours) ≈ Battery (Wh) × 0.85 ÷ Load (W) where 0.85 is a practical efficiency placeholder for inverter losses and real-world conditions.

UDPOWER examples (battery-only estimates)

These are math estimates, not a promise of compatibility. Motor loads (like AC compressors) can require much higher startup power than their running watts.

UDPOWER Model Battery Capacity AC Output Rating (as listed) ~600W Load ~900W Load ~1200W Load What This Usually Covers Well

S1200 (product page)

S1200
1191Wh 1200W (1800W max), 5 AC outlets ~1.69 hrs ~1.12 hrs ~0.84 hrs Fans, electronics, small appliances; AC may be possible only in select low-surge scenarios.

C600 (product page)

C600
596Wh 600W (1200W max), 2 AC outlets ~0.84 hrs ~0.56 hrs ~0.42 hrs Charging, laptops, small devices; typically not intended for starting a rooftop RV AC.

Solar input can extend time (when conditions allow)

UDPOWER Model Max Solar Input (as listed) Practical takeaway
S1200 400W max (12–75V, 12A) In strong sun, solar can offset part of the load, but AC still drains quickly.
C600 240W max (11–28V, 8.2A) Helpful for “daytime support” loads; AC is still a high-demand use case.

If your real goal is “stay comfortable off-grid,” many RVers pair efficient airflow (roof vent fans + shade + insulation) with short, strategic AC runs on shore/generator. For lighter RV tasks (charging and essentials), smaller stations like UDPOWER C400 can still be useful—just don’t expect it to start a rooftop AC.

Ways to Reduce AC Power Demand

RV parked in shade with awning deployed and roof vent fan to reduce air conditioner workload

  • Install a soft starter (if compatible): some soft starters advertise up to ~75% reduction in startup current, which can be the difference between “won’t start” and “starts reliably.”
  • Clean filters and coils: restricted airflow raises amperage and reduces cooling performance.
  • Manage voltage drop: use a proper shore cord, avoid loose adapters, and consider a quality surge/voltage monitor.
  • Pre-cool and shade: reflective windshield covers, awnings, and parking orientation can reduce run time.
  • Don’t stack high loads: microwave, electric water heater, and space heaters compete with AC on 30A service.
Safety note: RV electrical work can be hazardous. If you’re not comfortable wiring inside the AC shroud or distribution box, have a qualified RV technician handle modifications like soft starters.

FAQ

Icon set representing RV AC power topics: watts, amps, surge, shore power, battery
1) How many watts does a 13,500 BTU RV AC use?

Many 13.5k rooftop units run around ~1,300–1,900W while cooling, but startup surge can be much higher for a moment. Your exact wattage depends on the model and conditions—check the data plate for amps.

2) How many watts does a 15,000 BTU RV AC use?

Commonly ~1,500–2,000W while cooling, with a brief higher startup surge. Heat, humidity, and voltage drop can increase average draw.

3) Why is RV AC startup wattage so high?

The compressor can draw a large inrush current at startup (often referenced by “LRA” on spec sheets). That surge is brief, but it’s the hardest moment for inverters and small generators.

4) Can I run my RV AC on 30 amp shore power?

Usually yes for one AC—just avoid stacking other big loads at the same time (microwave, electric water heater, etc.).

5) Can I run two RV ACs on 30 amp?

It’s often unreliable. Even if they start, the combined running watts plus other RV loads can trip breakers. Two ACs is typically a 50A-service scenario (or careful energy management).

6) What’s the most accurate way to measure my RV AC watts?

Use an AC power meter (or clamp meter + voltage reading) while the compressor is running. Measuring at the pedestal or with an inline meter can also show total RV draw.

7) Does a soft starter guarantee my AC will run on a battery?

No. It can reduce startup demand, but you still need enough continuous watts to keep the compressor running and enough battery (Wh) for runtime.

8) Why does my AC trip the breaker at some campgrounds but not others?

Voltage drop, shared pedestal load, poor connections, or simultaneously running other appliances can push you over the limit.

9) Does “BTU to watts” conversion tell me electrical watts?

Not directly. BTU/hr describes cooling output (heat moved). Electrical input watts depend on efficiency. Use the data plate amps for the most accurate electrical estimate.

10) If I can’t run the AC, what’s a practical backup plan?

Many RVers combine airflow (vent fans), shade, reflective covers, and short “cool-down” cycles on shore or generator. A portable power station is often most effective for essentials and electronics rather than continuous AC.

Sources & Further Reading

About Author

Written by an RV power & enerACgy-use researcher who focuses on translating manufacturer specs (amps, LRA/RLA, watt-hours) into practical sizing guidance for shore power, generators, and portable battery systems.

Editorial note: Always verify your specific AC model’s label/manual and test under your real conditions (temperature, voltage, altitude).RV

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