How Many Amps Does a Small Fridge Draw?
ZacharyWilliamQuick answer (typical U.S. 120V homes): many small/compact fridges pull roughly 0.5–2 amps while the compressor is running, and can briefly spike higher when the compressor starts. The exact number depends on the model, temperature, and whether the compressor is currently on.
The fastest way to be certain is to check the fridge’s nameplate (often lists amps) or measure with a plug-in power meter.
Below you’ll find: (1) realistic amp ranges by fridge size, (2) a simple watts-to-amps cheat sheet, (3) how to read the label so you don’t guess, and (4) how to size battery backup for a fridge without overbuying.
If you’re here because you’re deciding on backup power, these UDPOWER guides go deeper (they’re written for non-electricians): Can a Portable Power Station Run Your Refrigerator? and How Long Can a Portable Battery Power a Refrigerator?.
Amps vs. watts (and why fridges “cycle”)
A refrigerator doesn’t pull a perfectly steady current all day. Most of the time, the compressor is off. Then it kicks on, runs for a while, and shuts off again. That on-and-off pattern is why two fridges can have similar “running amps,” but very different energy costs over a month.
Running amps
This is the current draw while the compressor is actively running. If you’re worried about tripping a circuit or choosing an inverter size, running amps are a useful starting point.
Prefer thinking in watts? UDPOWER breaks down fridge wattage (and what it means for real usage) here: How Many Watts Does a Fridge Use?
Start-up surge (the brief spike)
When a compressor motor starts, it may pull a short burst higher than its normal running draw. That’s why power stations and inverters list a “surge” rating—so the motor can start cleanly.
If you’re sizing a battery/inverter specifically for a refrigerator, this walkthrough is useful: Can a Portable Power Station Run Your Refrigerator?
One more helpful distinction: average draw (over hours) is what determines runtime on a battery, while peak draw (surge) is what determines whether the compressor can start.
Typical amp draw for small fridges (U.S. 120V)
The ranges below are meant for quick planning. If you need precision, jump to how to find your fridge’s real amps.
| Fridge type | What “small” usually means | Typical running watts (compressor on) | Typical running amps @ 120V | Start-up notes (brief) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mini fridge | Personal / dorm, compact compressor unit | ~50–100W | ~0.4–0.9A | Can spike above running draw for a moment; varies widely by compressor |
| Compact fridge | Small apartment / under-counter | ~70–150W | ~0.6–1.25A | Often starts easily, but plan surge headroom if using an inverter |
| Standard refrigerator | Full-size kitchen models (efficient units can still be modest) | ~100–400W | ~0.8–3.3A | Start-up surge can be multiple times running watts |
| Older / inefficient units | Older compressors, warm garages, heavy door-open cycles | ~200–800W (while running) | ~1.7–6.7A | More likely to need stronger surge capability |
These are planning ranges, not guarantees. Your nameplate amps (or a quick measurement) beats any table on the internet. If you want a watt-first version of this same topic, see: How Many Watts Does a Fridge Use?
120V cheat sheet: amps ↔ watts
In most U.S. homes, refrigerators run on ~120V circuits. The relationship is straightforward: Watts = Volts × Amps.
| Amps | Watts (approx.) @ 120V | What that feels like in real life |
|---|---|---|
| 0.5A | ~60W | Very small compressor load or low average draw |
| 1A | ~120W | Common “compressor running” ballpark for efficient units |
| 2A | ~240W | Heavier running draw or additional loads (fans/defrost) |
| 3A | ~360W | Still within many inverter capacities; may be surge-limited |
| 5A | ~600W | High running draw; common for older/less efficient conditions |
| 10A | ~1200W | Usually surge territory for a fridge motor, not steady running |
Small but important: a fridge might average ~60–100W over time, yet still need a higher short burst to start the compressor. That’s why backup sizing is a two-step job: surge first, runtime second.
If you’re building a fridge backup kit and want to see what “real-world runtime” looks like across battery sizes, this article helps: How Long Can a Portable Battery Power a Refrigerator?
How to find your fridge’s real amps
Option 1: Read the nameplate (fastest)
Look for a label inside the fridge cabinet or on the back near the compressor area. Many list: Amps, Rated current, or sometimes LRA (locked rotor amps).
- Amps / Rated current: closer to normal running draw
- LRA: a motor-start reference that can help explain why surge matters
- Volts: usually 115–120V in U.S. homes
If you see only watts, convert: amps ≈ watts ÷ 120. For a deeper watt-based explanation (plus common fridge watt ranges), see: How Many Watts Does a Fridge Use?
Option 2: Measure it (most accurate)
A plug-in power meter can show watts and sometimes amps. Watch it for a few compressor cycles:
- Peak watts (start-up)
- Running watts (compressor steady)
- Average watts over time (best for battery runtime math)
If your goal is battery backup, average watts over a few hours is the number you’ll care about most. For an easy “battery size → fridge runtime” breakdown, see: How Long Can a Portable Battery Power a Refrigerator?
What makes a fridge’s amp draw go up or down
- Ambient temperature: a garage in summer can push longer compressor run time.
- Door openings: frequent opening = more warm air = more work for the compressor.
- Food load: warm food you just put in needs energy to cool down.
- Defrost cycles: some models run a heater periodically, raising short-term watts.
- Age and condition: dirty condenser coils and older compressors can draw more.
- Efficiency: newer efficient units can have low average draw even if surge exists.
This is why “my fridge is only 1 amp” can still translate into meaningful daily energy use—and why a single quick measurement can save you from buying the wrong backup. If you’re also planning to recharge during outages, this is a useful next step: How Many Solar Panels Do I Need to Run a Refrigerator?
Sizing battery backup for a fridge (a practical method)
Step 1: Make sure the compressor can start
Your backup (inverter or power station) needs enough surge headroom for a split second. If you can find a “peak watts” reading or a label hint (like LRA), you can avoid guesswork.
If you want a fridge-specific checklist for choosing a power station (including surge considerations), see: Can a Portable Power Station Run Your Refrigerator?
Step 2: Estimate runtime from average watts
Battery capacity is listed in watt-hours (Wh). A practical planning formula:
Runtime (hours) ≈ Battery Wh × 0.85 ÷ Average fridge watts
The 0.85 factor is a common planning allowance for inverter and conversion losses. Real-world results vary by temperature and compressor cycling. For more example runtimes and “what changes in real life,” see: How Long Can a Portable Battery Power a Refrigerator?
Example runtimes (using common “average watts” scenarios)
| Battery size | If your fridge averages ~60W | If your fridge averages ~80W | If your fridge averages ~100W | What to do if you’re not sure |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ~250–300Wh | ~3.5–4.5 hours | ~2.5–3.5 hours | ~2–3 hours | Measure average watts over a few hours (best) |
| ~600Wh | ~8–9 hours | ~6–7 hours | ~5 hours | Use the EnergyGuide kWh/year to estimate average watts |
| ~1,200Wh | ~16–17 hours | ~12–13 hours | ~10 hours | Plan for warm-room days (longer run time) |
| ~2,000Wh | ~28–29 hours | ~21–22 hours | ~17 hours | Ideal if you want more “overnight + daytime” cushion |
Shortcut: use the EnergyGuide label (if you have it)
Many refrigerators show an estimated kWh per year. Convert it to average watts:
Average watts ≈ (kWh/year × 1000) ÷ 8760
This gives an average over time, which is exactly what you want for runtime math. If you want to translate “average watts” into solar panel needs, this is the cleanest next read: How Many Solar Panels Do I Need to Run a Refrigerator?
UDPOWER picks for fridge backup
If your goal is “keep food cold during an outage” or “run a fridge off-grid,” pick based on two things: surge headroom (start-up) and watt-hours (runtime).
If you’re still comparing sizes, it helps to browse by category first: Portable Power Stations and Solar Generator Kits.
| Model | Battery (Wh) | AC output | Surge support | Solar input notes | Best fit for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| UDPOWER C400 | 256Wh | 400W | Up to 800W | Listed up to 150W solar input (compact setups) | Mini fridge for short windows, plus lights/phones |
| UDPOWER C600 | 596Wh | 600W | Up to 1200W | Solar input listed 11–28V, 12A, 220W max; designed around 18V-class panels | Compact fridge + longer runtime, travel-friendly backup |
| UDPOWER S1200 | 1,190Wh | 1,200W | UDTURBO up to 1,800W | Solar input listed 12–75V, 12A, up to 400W | Most efficient full-size fridges overnight |
| UDPOWER S2400 | 2,083Wh | 2,400W | UDTURBO surge support up to 3,000W | Solar input listed 12–50V, 10A max (up to 400W solar charging) | More runtime cushion + heavier start-up loads |
Solar pairing (why voltage matters)
Solar panels aren’t just “watts.” Voltage and current have to fit inside your station’s solar input range. UDPOWER’s pairing guide lays this out clearly (and includes the side-by-side panel specs):
- 120W vs 210W vs 2×120W Solar Panels (UDPOWER pairing guide)
- Browse Portable Power Stations • Browse Solar Generator Kits
If your plan is “fridge + solar,” this refrigerator-specific solar sizing guide is worth bookmarking: How Many Solar Panels Do I Need to Run a Refrigerator?
FAQ
How many amps does a mini fridge draw?
Many mini fridges land under a couple of amps while running, but the true answer depends on the compressor and how often it cycles. Use the nameplate amps or a plug-in meter for a reliable number.
Why does my fridge show low amps but still use noticeable energy?
Because it runs for many short cycles. Low running amps can still add up if the compressor runs often (warm room, frequent door openings, or older unit). If you want to translate that into “how long will a battery last,” see: How Long Can a Portable Battery Power a Refrigerator?
Is start-up surge really a big deal?
It can be. Many inverters/power stations fail a “fridge test” not because the fridge needs huge power constantly, but because the compressor can’t start reliably without surge headroom. For a fridge-focused checklist (surge + runtime), see: Can a Portable Power Station Run Your Refrigerator?
Can I run a small fridge on a standard 15A household circuit?
In most homes, yes—fridges are designed for normal household circuits. The bigger risk is stacking multiple high-draw appliances on the same circuit (microwaves, heaters, air fryers).
What number matters most for battery runtime?
Average watts over time. A quick 2–4 hour measurement usually gives you a better planning number than guessing from “running amps.” If you also want to figure out solar recharging for that runtime, start here: How Many Solar Panels Do I Need to Run a Refrigerator?
Where the numbers come from
For transparency, the electrical relationship (watts = volts × amps) is a standard definition. The planning ranges and examples in this article were cross-checked against published guidance and common appliance references:
- U.S. government energy guidance on estimating appliance energy use: Energy.gov: Estimating Appliance and Home Electronic Energy Use
- Typical refrigerator wattage ranges (helpful for planning, but your label is best): Coast Appliances: Refrigerator Wattage Guide (How Many Watts Do Fridges Use?)
- Motor start-up behavior (inrush current / brief spike vs steady running): Fluke: How and Why to Measure Inrush Current
- UDPOWER product specifications and solar pairing: S1200 specs, S2400 specs, C600 specs, C400 specs, solar pairing guide
If you want the most accurate answer for your fridge and your home, measure it over a few compressor cycles and size backup based on both surge and average watts.
